Art of ornamented knitted wearing apparel manufacture



l Oc't. 21, 1941. u. T. MARR 2,260,117

ART oF ORNAMENTED KNITTED WEARING APPAREL MANUFACTURE Filed oct. 24, l1938 y A 1 F f f\ 'i' B2 'h 51 v v s nl( '-!l|--1Ie=.\=u,.

L I j I @Agg /Z' BY MMM/2M' ATTORNEY@ Patented Oct. 21, 1941 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE..

ART OF ORNAMENTED KNITTED WEARING APPAREL MAN UFACTURE Urban T. Marr, Appleton, Wis., assignor to Zwicker Knitting Mills, Appleton, Wis., a corporation of Wisconsin Appiioaiionooio'bor 24,1938, soi-iai No. 236,689

(ci. i6-201) 13 Claims.

- of crocheting.

size or extent ofthe pattern or decorated area whlchhpan be obtained.

With these objections and difficulties in mind, the present invention provides for the production of knitted articles having designs or ornamentations incorporated therein by machine or character can be knitted into the knitted article.

knitting in a manner so that the knitting oats are interlocked with or laid under certain of the strands of the body fabric with the elimination of long knitting floats, there being no restrictions on the size, shape, or character of the in,- corporated design areas.

A furtherfobject of the invention is to provide an ornamented knitted article and method of producing the same characterized by jersey or single stitch jacquard float designs, wherein, during the knitting, two yarn feeds are supplying strands for-the knitting of the body fabric while another feed supplies the yarnfor the' pattern whichis knit' over the floats made by both of the strands from the first-mentioned feeds.-

Itis anoihexrfobjooi of the present invention to vprovvide an :pornamented knitted 'article andmethodof producing-.the same wherein the-de#v sign'is completely fastened into and intermeshed with the knittedffabric proper and 'so secured that there is no possibility of 'there being dropped stitches or loose ends of -the 'design strands,

whereby a design of any desired width and type A further object of the invention is to provide a knitted article and method of forming the same wherein' a design may be incorporated in the knitted fabric in a unique manner which does not require any take-up or tension on the design forming strand or strands.

A further object of the invention is to provide a knitted article with machine fashioned design areas therein, and method of producingthe same, which is simple, inexpensive and commercially expeditious, and which is well adapted for the purposes described.

With the above and other objects in view, the

invention consists of the improved knitted article and method of producing the same, and its parts, combinations and steps, as set forth in the claims, andA all equivalents thereof.

In the accompanying drawing in which the same reference characters indicate the same parts in all of the views:

Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic view of a portion of a knitted article fabric, looking at the reverse side thereof, and showing a design forming thread or strand in knitted, design forming association therewith;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary View of the fabric of a knitted article showing machine knit designs therein; t t

` Fig. 3 is a fragmentary viewyof an article forming tubular blank of knitted fabric showing the condition of the same as it is taken from the machine with particular reference to the unfastened portion of the design threads before severance, the tubular blank being shown reversed as to its normal condition for usev and as to the condition in which it leaves the machine; and

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary view of a longer blank turned through half a circle and showing the unfastened portions of the threads for several designs, such threads being severed and also showing the knitting floats which produce the several separate designs.l

In the present invention the fabric is of tubular seamless formation and is knit on an open 'rhomeiiiod of knitting the ruolo fabric with I' the design oxj'pattern` therein is subject to ordi-y nary variations of machine operation, depending on the character of the stitch, type of yarn 'thefabric or blank is vnated I, 3, and 1.

utilized, and the size and character of the applied pattern or design, but essentially the method employed is as follows: During the course of the operation of the machine for knitting the cylindrical blank, at least two of the machine yarn feeds are employed for feeding to the blank forming needles the yarn for the body fabric. At a proper vtime during the knitting of the body fabric one or more strands of yarn from one or more additional feeds are led to the machine and. are operated on by proper needles in the machine to knit into the fabric the stitches for the design or pattern which may be in any suitable configuration, of any desired width and size, and in any selected color or colors,

In Fig. 1 there is depicted semi-diagrammatically and in enlarged or magnified form a fragment `of the body fabric of a knitted article with design forming stitches incorporated therein. In this view there is represented the manner in which the design stitches for a simple pattern are associated with the body fabric stitches. The yarn strand for the design stitches extending from a feed (not shown) is indicated by the letter a: while the yarn strands for the body fabric extending from other feeds (not shown) are indicated in the various courses by the reference characters AI to LI inclusive, it being appreciated that the fabric is ina cylinder machine fand the strand `courses referred toare in circular formation.. W

'In the knitting machine utilized, ,certain se; lected design forming needles V are thrown into and out of operation and-theseneedles, inthe present 'exemplification operate on the strands 35 in the following manner: They body portion of l knit in a one by one float stitch wherein the various courses AI', BI, CI, DI, EI, FI, GI, HI, II, JI, KI, and LI make loops in the odd numbered vertical rows desig- 40 Courses B2, C2, D2, E2, F2, G2, H2, I2, J2, K2, and L2 make loops in the even numbered v.vertical rows designated 2, 4, 6 and 8.\ At a certain point inthe fabric the design strand :c is to be interknit therewith and as illustrated the incorporation of said design strand a: commences in about the E course. lt will be noted that course EI is formed with, loops in the vertical rows I, 3, 5 and 1, and the strand in said course fioats over rows 2,-4, 6 and A50 8. Course E2 forms.loops in: the vertical rows.

2,5 and 8, and floats over rows I, 3, 4, 5 and 1,

thereby providing an open space in row 4 in the E course whereinv the pattern may start. The, pattern forming strand as previously mentioned, is fed from another source and the ends of the yarn :c are laid under the floats made in the EI course and over loops 2, 6 and 8, this being accomplished automatically during the process of knitting the blank by throwing into operation proper .tucking needles,. as `will later appear. i

In the F, courses-it will be observed that course FI forms loops in the vertical rows I and 1 and floatsv over rows v2, 3,-4, 5, 6 and 8. Course F265 forms loops on rows` 2, `6 and 8 and floats over 'rows I, 3, 4, 5 and 1. -As a result the 'strands' of courses FI and F2 float over rows 3, 4 and 5,

lthereby providing threeI open spaces for the pattern'yarn rc, and the ends of this yarn are laid 70 under the floats made by the FI course and are laid over loops 2, 6 and 8. vThe arrangement in theG and I -I courses is the same as that just described in connection with the F courses.

1 When the I courses are reached it will be ob- 75 loops in the f rows of the E courses; in the 3, 4 and served that courses II forms loops on rows I, 3,

5 and 1 and floats over rows 2`, 4, E, and 8. Course I2 forms loops in rows 2, 6 and 8 and oats over rows I, 3, 4, 5 and 1. Consequently an `open space for the pattern yarn :i: is provided in the 4 row inthe I courses. It will therefore appear that the patternyarn a: will be knit independently at the following points: in the 4 5 rows of the F, G and H courses; and in the 4 row of the I courses. As to courses EI and E2, FI and F2, GI and G2, and I-II and H2, the yarn will be floated at the same points where the a: strand is knit into the fabric.

i The number of times that the design forming strand :c is laid under a float is determined by the ultimate Width of the pattern. As the blank forms and progresses the design forming strand a: encircles the blank from the last point of fastening in one course to the first point of fastening or securement in the next course. Consequently the pattern is formed on a full float stitch.-

In order that the securement of the pattern strand a: may be understood, the following ex-` planation applies: The pattern is started by strand :r which extends from the proper,feed, knitting into and on the fabric with reference to course E-JroW." Said strand :1: is'at that time being held in .the same course by the needles for rows I and 1 ina tuck stitch position, thus hav-l pose is determinedby the size of thevpattern..

witnasjmany needles being'used on each: side of the pattern as may be desired; these being spaced so that all will knit off on the Various I courses. Said'needles can be inserted through thepattern area as well as on each side of the pattern, if the kfioats ofthe pattern so demand. It should nextbe observedthat the needle of vertical row I inthe E course had engaged strand z, and said strand, which was held vas a tuck stitch, is dropped off and forms a float overthe needle of row I. vThe strand at course ElV floats over the needle of row 2, thereby tying in the` f float of strand a: from the needle of row I to the needle of rw4. The actual pattern is started by-the needle No. Ilv of course E. The strand ofcourse EI then knits -on the needle of the row 3 and floats over the started pattern at the needle of'row 4 and knits' on needle 5. It also floats over the needle of the 6 roW which ser-vesto tle the float knitted by the strand :c between the needle 'of row 5vand the needle of row 1. `The strand next drops off the tuckstitch on row 1 and floats over -the needle of row 8, which serves to tie in the float of strand a: between .row 1 .and the next needle that is utilizedi'to hold a' tuck stitch (not shown). 'The strand of coursey E2 then follows and knits on the needles of rows 2,

6 and 8 and fioats over the needles of rows I,

3, 4 5 and 1, which needles have nothing to doy with the tying-in of the floats, but only help to keep the strand :c against the inside of the fabric and to produce a `clear, smooth pattern.

Fig.k 3 represents a fragmentary view of a piece of tubular fabric knit according to the method just described to ,accomplish one of the design formations indicated at I2 in Fig. 2. This `fra'gmentof fabric is inside-out relative to its condition upon removal from themachine and.

relative to the position in which it is normally used in wearing apparel. Upon removal of the stitches.

, or plural colors. 'I 'he entire 'tened under the floats blank in the condition shown in Fig. 3, the floats I3 are connected and extend over a portion of the inverted exposed face of the fabric, as shown. To prepare the fabric for use said floats should be severed and trimmed and this is accomplished as shown in Fig. 4 wherein the float strands I3 and I3 are ilrst severed centrally and then are additionally trimmed relatively close Yfanbric, reversed shown in Fig. 2 wherein I the knitted body fabric I 4 has incorporated thereon a pair of design or ornamentation areas I2 and I 2 independently accomplished in the manner previously described. It' Will be observed that the design strands .2: and

the ends of the design strands are laid under certain floats of the body fabric. 'Ihis absolutely insures against unraveling or .dropped Even after the floats I3 are knit overthe floats of the body fabric forming strands and l wales, and another of which is knitted in intervening wales and floated across alternate wales, said fabric having a decorated area in which all of said body strands are floated, said decorated area comprising a third strand which is knit in one or more Wales and courses, said third strand overlying the floats of said body strands and said third strand being held by floats of a body strand ,on opposite margins of said decorated area in in which it is knit.

and I3"of the pattern are severed and trimmed. the design areas are nevertheless tightly secured in the fabricand the strands of the same will not pull out. While one type of design has been illustrated and described, it is obvious that the design can be of any` type or pattern and of'any size or width and can be incorporated Wherever desired in the body fabric and the fabric may be formed with a plurality of independent designs of various characters.

The fabric thus yknit may be" used for certain forms of knitted wearing apparel'and is particularly adapted for gloves and mittens. The

be applied with any of the same type of materials and in single or multiple strands and of single article is completely knit and finished on the machine and can be produced efllciently and economically and the design areas therein can be formed WithOutJimitations and will simulate the more expensive forms oi) knitted fabrics which are subsequently ornamented by hand operations. y

In the finished article the design strand is fas# of the body strands on -and floated across intervening Wales, and the is knitted `in intervening wales and area in which both of said body strands are floated, said design area comprising a third strand which is knit in one or more wales alternate Wales, said fabric hav' .strands may be of any suitable type of yarn, f thread, string or the like, and the'design may body strands, and with each course in which it is knit.

3. A -knitted article comprising two body strands, one of which is knitted in alternate Wales and floated across intervening wales and the otherv of which is knitted in intervening Wales and floated across alternate wales, said article having separated and independent design areas in which both of'said body strands are floated, said design areas each comprising a third strand which is knit in one or more wales and courses, said 'thirdf strand overlying the floats of said body strands '.throughout each of the v design areas, and being held by floats of a body strand on both sides of the design areas in each course 4. A knittedl fabric comprising two body strandsfone of which is knitted in alternate wales and floated over intervening wales, and the other -knitted Ain intervening wales and floated over valternate wales, and a third strand associate with portions of the body strands to form a design area, said third strand beingheld under the floats of a body strand on both sides of the design area in each course in which it -is knit.

5. The method of producing a knitted designed fabric which consists in the steps of knitting two body strands; one in alternate Wales only and the otherin intervening wales only, and producing a design area on said fabric by floating both knitting a third strand 'iz/1', one or more wales and courses, Withthe third strand overlying the floats of the body strands, and with the floats of a body strand holding the third strand at opposite sides of the design area.

6. The method. of producing a circular knitted fabric with separate and independent design areas, which consists in the steps of knitting a plurality of lbody strands, one of which is knitted in alternate wales only and floated across the intervening wales, and another of which is knitted in intervening wales onlyl and floated across the alternatev wales, and producing design areas on and courses, said third strand overlying the floats of said body strands and being held -by floats of a body strand on both sides of said design area in each course in which it is knit. l

2. A knitted decorated fabric comprising a plurality of body strands, one ofwhich is knitted in alternate wales and floated across intervening 7 through the design areas tional strand through the ner to overlie the` floats and knitting an addi;-v

made by' both of said the floats of a body strand holding said additional strand on both sides of the design areas in each. course in which it is knit. f

.7. A yplainv knitted tubular fabric comprising tw-bodyyarn's, one of which is knit in alternate walesrand floatedacross intervening wales, and the other of which is knit in said intervening wales and floated across said alternate wales, said fabric having a design area in which a third yarn only is knit in a plurality of wales and courses, both said body yarns being floated behind said third yarn at said design area, said third yarn being floated coursewise at each side of said design area, floats of said third yarn being held by floats of one of said body yarns adjacent said design area on both sides thereof ineach course in which said third yarn is knit.

desing areas in a man-` i vonly isknit in one or 8, A'plain knitted tubular fabric comprising two body yarns, one of which isknit in alternate walesand iioated across intervening wales, and the other of which is knit in said intervening wales and iioated across said alternate wales, said fabric having a design area in which a third yarn vmore wales and courses, both said body yarns being oated behind said third yarn at said design area, said third yarn being floated coursewise at each side of said design area, iioats of said third yarn being held by i'loats of oneof said body yarns adjacent said` both sidesthereof in each course l design area on in which said third yarn is knit.

9. A circular knitted fabric, comprising two body strands, one of which is knitted in predetermined Vwales and the other of which is knitted in predetermined wales and iloated across other wales, said fabric having 1a design area in which both of said body strands arefloated relative to selected wales, said design area being developed from a third strand which is 'knit in bne or more wales and courses, said third strand-overlying the floats of said body strands throughout the design area and being held by oats of a-body strand laterally of the margins of said design area in each course in which it is knit'.

l0. A circular knitted fabric, comprising two bodyI strands, one of whichis knitted in predetermined wales and the other of which is knitted in predetermined wales and floated across other wales, said fabric having a design area in which both of said body strands are floated relative to selected wales, said design area being developed from a third strand which is knit in one or more wales and courses and which cooperates with at least one of the body strands in 'termined design conguration, overlying the floats of said body strands throughout the design area and being held by floats of a bodystrand laterally of the design area in each course in which itis knit. v

forming a predel1. A circular knitted fabric, comprising twobody strands, one of which is knittedin prede- 'termined wales and the other of which is knitted from a contrasting in predetermined wales and floated across other wales, said fabric having a design area in which both o! said body strands are floatedy relative to selected wales, said design area being developed third strand which is knit in one or more wales and courses and which cooperates with at least one of the body strands in forminga predetermined design configuration with contrasting areas, said third strand overlying the floats of said body strands throughout the design areaand being held by iioats of a body strand laterally of the design area in each course in which it is knit.

12.`\A knitted article, comprising two body strands, one of which is knitted in alternate wales and floated across intervening lwales, and

area by the said third strand the other of which is knitted in certainwales, both of said body strands being fioated across predetermined wales, and a third strand associated with portions of the body strands to form a design area, said third strand being knittedin the wales in which both of the body strands are oated and`being h eld laterally of the design floats of one of said body strands. 13. A knitted article in which part of the blank'contains two body strands, one of which is knit in, alternate wales and floatedacross intervening wales, and the other of which is knit in certain wales, both of said body strands being floated across predetermined wales, and an additional strand or strands knit in the predetermined wales in which both body strands are floated, the additional strand or strands beingv held tight to the blank by the floats of one of the body strands at the margins of the design area in each course in which said strand or strands are knit.

URBAN T. MARR. 

